Wednesday, November 10, 2004

kamojima and the garden of eden

Two days ago I went to Kamojima with three chums--two who work at nova and another who works at some small english school. One of the nova teachers lives there, and he met us at the station early in the morning, afterwhich we walked up the road, passing rice fields and irrigation ditches. Kamojima is a very small town with beautiful mountains in the near distance, and at their foot is a cluster of small temples and the beginning of a trail that ascends and descends three of these mountains. At the top of the third is a larger temple where pilgrims stop who are making the eighty-eight temple pilgrimage. The forest along the trail is superbly beautiful, full of tall trees, bamboo groves, and sub-tropical plants. The hike was strenuous, but initially we were all ambitious and full of energy, leaping up the log steps and keeping a quick pace, stopping only to admire the views when we encountered a level break. Whenever we looked out at the expanse below us, we saw slopes covered in trees and small fields dotted with tiny houses. While hiking, we often passed a solitary pilgrim dressed in white robes with a straw hat and walking stick who would step aside to let us pass and wish us a good day. Towards the top of the second mountain, there is a resting spot with an enormous tree in the center surrounded by a stone gate. Set in front of the tree is a large stone statue of a pligrim in traditional garb. As we climbed the steps up to the statue, sunlight crept out from between the branches of the tree and dazzled our faces. Near the bottom of this mountain was a tiny cluster of houses with large fruit tree gardens and small old women tending the plants. We picked some oranges and found some fallen kiwis, which tasted better than any other we had eaten before. Past the kiwi trees was a small stream that became a small river, and a bridge that led over it to another trail up the third mountain. Below the bridge was an array of large stones and a deep blue pool where the water gathered. We clambered down the slope and sat on the rocks for a while, listening to the sounds of the stream and endulging in the peaceful silence that embraced this place. As we were leaving, Jeff, the other nova teacher, jumped over the rushing stream from one rock to another, and i contemplated doing the same, as the distance was not great, but my mind froze me in place. I realized that i had a fear of jumping over water, which was interesting to discover but frustrating to deal with. As everyone was leaving, i was still bracing myself for the jump, and trying to concentrate. They signaled to me at the top near the trail, and i motioned to move on and that i would catch up, but they remained and chatted, waiting for me. I had to try to ignore the fact that people were waiting and i had to remind myself of the safety of the jump, and i remained determined. I finally broke free of the hold my mind had on me and jumped, landing very safely, and rejoined the group on top. We soon reached the temple after the longest and most difficult uphill climb, because by then our legs were giving way. The temple was beautiful, with old chipping statues of angry gods and decorated interiors with statues of the meditating Buddha. We had the priviledge of hearing the pilgrims pray together, led by a monk, in what i assume was a Buddhist prayer. It sounded like a chanted drone, much like an orthodox Jewish service, but less melodic. The cedar trees surrounding the temple were huge because they were allowed to grow for so long. After visiting the temple, we proceeded down a slope to a road, and followed it until we found a free ride to town from a nice bus driver who told us the drive was "top secret" (in english... one of the only english phrases he seemed to know for some reason). After getting into town and traipsing around a bit, we caught a bus back to Tokushima station. A splendid day!

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